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I have watched a video for the Aladdin xt install on a 1.6 xbox, and the guy never mentioned anything about the d0 point. Is it not necessary to use the d0 point with this aladdin chip (on the 1.6 or even so with all other revisions)? I understand the where the wires go with the lpc rebuild process with a 1.6, and understand extra steps wiring a 1.5 Xbox as well. But i am stumped about where this d0 wire (i know where the d0 pad is on the mobo) connects to, or even if it has to be connected at all! Sorry in advance.

If you first start using it, it's almost magic guiding your solder to only stick on places it should. However when you want to TSOP flash (connecting two points close to eachother). The flux will often cause the two points not to touch. So for tsopping I highly recommend not to use flux just thought I'd throw in that tip too.

Is this the main LED of the Xbox (the one around the eject button)? I thought it was for making the Aladdin LED blink. Finally, note that the second image you linked is something I made for the modded CPLD code I released for those cheap Aladdin XT PLUS2. For a vanilla, 'store-bought' modchip, this image is not valid and will lead to installation issues. So essentially, only use the D0 point on a 1.6, and don't use the LFRAME point? What's your take on this? Should I put up the info anyway?

I just got my Aladdin XT Plus2 in the mail and am looking to install it. I found what seems to be the only 'guide' which is [this.

The Wiki here is aimed more toward end-users rather than experts; but since you have the tutorial made already, you could make a page and port it over; it'd be great to link it into the Aladdin page! Of course big anti-noob warnings will be put at the top too:P • • • • •. Is this the main LED of the Xbox (the one around the eject button)? I thought it was for making the Aladdin LED blink. Yes, I was talking about the LED around the eject button. The red LED on the Aladdin Modchip itself is simply wired to +3.3V, on those PLUS2 versions anyway. Maybe earlier versions (or genuine units) have the LED indicating whether the modchip is activated or not.

I've modded thousands of devices and know what I'm doing. And even so, I have told every single customer I ever had to use an extension cord with a on/off switch. And turn it off on the extension switch when you are done playing. If you've ever seen a housefire. The 2 seconds to flip it off/on is worth it happy modding!

On the bottom is the demo job I did, and yours should look similar or better. You'll notice on the bottom picture, the LFrame/D0 wire is soldered to a pad you don't see anywhere else. The guide tells you to solder it to the chip, and the chip has a pad for it. That's not necessary. Just solder it to the pad I show you.

The EvoX (not to be confused with the dash Evolution X) BIOS is still quite capable of doing all that you need it to do The sucks for this but I managed to make my way through it so you should be able to as well Here are some pics of my install. I went with the basic install btw (none of the optional points were used). I forgot to take a pic of the pin header but you can get that idea from the guide linked above. I am glad you got it chipped. I will offer a few suggestions though. 1.flux your points a tad bit better 2.You can tin your points with the iron instead of putting the iron on the point and applying solder.

One of the most feature-packed low budget mod chips for Xbox. Reliable and easy to install. The Aladdin Advance XT is compatible with all XBOX models, including the V1.6B. Microprocessor controlled functions: can be disabled for XBOX LIVE and flash protected via XBOX power and eject buttons. Modchip modes are shown via different colours on the XBOX eject button LED. Flash upgradable via CD-RW / DVDR and EvolutionX dashboard. Also supports quick solder and Pinheader install options.

I need another version 3 that I can install in a console! A SmartXX Version 3 which I have for an Aladdin 4064 which you have. I'm presuming your Aladdin 4064 is the LCD version with the trim pot on it with the pinouts for driving the LCD, yes?

Just remember, this info is related to the M8 bioses. I really don't know if this is the case with X2 series bioses.

D0 is held to ground only until the bios is loaded to memory over LPC from the mod chip, then it is released. Not doing this can damage the MCPX over time due to high load on a data line not designed for the high current. Hi, in a tutorial I found online it says to cut the L-frame trace near mcpx chip. This will also protect the chip I believe. My source again is only this tutorial.

Solder 1 pin on the bottom side in place. Make sure your finger is not touching this pin on the other side. Mixcraft registration code generator.

No, you don't need to cut LFRAME if you have a mod chip that has a proper LFRAME point that releases ground after the Xbox boots. Usually labeled L1 or LF on the mod chip. On my xblast's you just tie the D0 point on the motherboard to the L1 point on the modchip. No cutting and no damage to the motherboard or components. The tutorial that started the thread is for a regular Aladdin XT plus 2, an xblasts modded one would be considered different from a stock one just to clear that up for anyone completely new to installing an Aladdin chip.

If you do glue I highly recommend you don't glue on the solder point, but a bit off from that. Should you ever need to resolder then you don't have to worry about the glue. When I started I used heatresistant foam tape, but these days there is a whole range of heatresistant tape available and even compleet sheets in sizes. I wouldn't recommend generic electric tape because their 'stickyness' wears out very fast when stuck to a mainboard. - And lost, but MOST important. Keep in mind you're messing with electricity.

I believe it was a 1.3. I'm not 100% sure because I have two different Xboxes but they're both definitely not 1.6 when I checked. So my understanding is that the chip just bypasses the original TSOP (flash where firmware is stored) and uses whatever is loaded on the aladdin's TSOP? Will it work out of the box with my new HDD and I can run just pop Slayers or Hexen in to actually softmod the original TSOP? If that's possible, it'd be preferable in case the aladdin ever craps out or something, since it'll essentially be bricked again without the original stock HDD if I keep the dashboard. First, make sure that both your motherboards are not 1.5.

So the beep check is good to check if you eyeball your work and think. Lets check Another thing the beep check is extremely (!) handy for it to see if your solder job didn't accidentally solder onto something else. Especially if it's small. Just hold the two leads on both the points and no beep. Great, you didn't connect your solder. Then use some braid to remover the solder and go for it again.

I took a 1.6 board I have laying around and decided to do a speed-mod. I paid no attention to quality of solder joints, length of wires, or anything else that a more experienced technician might look. I did it as quickly and as shoddy as I could, so I could show results similar to what the average Joe may expect. I'm not trying to talk it down. THIS WORKS, and that is what matters and that's what this guide is for. Insert the pinheader. Hold it with one finger against the board and flip it over.

When the Aladdin XT is activated with Evox bios, it allows the user to play backup games straight from DVD-R’s and even DVD’s without a remote. The mod chip also allows the user to store games on the Xbox hard-drive for easy access. Not only is Aladdin Advance XT inexpensive for its features, it is also compatible with all Xbox versions 1.0 to 1.6 (NEW!). The Aladdin XT comes pre-flashed (upgraded) with Evox M8 BIOS (LBA48-06/IGR) bios, 256k BIOS banks, and can be shut off for online gaming with a touch of a button. With features of the Aladdin Advance 64, Aladdin 32 and the Aladdin Plus, it is the perfect bargain mod chip for even the newest versions (version 1.6) of the Xbox. This version does not include the trim pot for external LCD. Features • Play all homebrew • Play all original imports • Run Debug Executables • LBA48 Hack • Big HDD (2TB max) support • Embedded In Game Reset (IGR) • Compatible with all EvolutionX software • No-patch hack • Eject trick hack • Auto patch new media flag titles • Support for XBOX v1.6 • Works on all regions • Three boot modes; Off-On-Write Protect • Can be flashed (upgraded) • Open tool design • Compatible with XBOX v1.0 - v1.6 Operation Aladdin XT Modes: Off - Tap the power button and the Xbox starts as normal with the original BIOS.

-Also, what does it mean to 'rebuild the LPC'? Is that just fancy for soldering the chip to it? And: Check out this diagram!! If you dont have the pin headers, you can just solder with wires.

When you tin your wire with flux and solder you can quickly solder it into place with minimum effort. There are a few cold solder joints,but that is okay.

Thanks but those links didn't help me any. Those pictures are very vague. If someone can help me answer this question: This is the setup I'll need to do in order to install my Aladdin XT. Now, I am very confused where some of these points go to.

Just hold the two leads on both the points and no beep. Great, you didn't connect your solder. Then use some braid to remover the solder and go for it again. - Secondly I highly highly recommend you get a cheap 15w soldering (pen style) iron with a pointed tip. Please don't use your dad's old soldering iron with a thick tip (guess how i started back then). It usually will run far too hot (as it's meant for soldering larger objects) making you burn through a board and potentially wreck it.

This is will prevent you from using to much solder. Put a little solder on your iron tip and apply it quickly to your soldering point.

Xkiller mod chip based on a cheap mod and i believe this basic type of chip will only work on a version 1.3 or below motherboard because of protection measures added by microsoft it only has on connection to d0 and has no live safe mode: akira v2 mod chip it has 2 bank switches to set banks jumper 1 selects bank 1 (512) jumper 2 selects bank 2 (512) no jumpers or both jumpers selects both banks (1024) this chips requires the akira flash bios (a hacked version of cromwell) loaded by pheonix bios loader to be able to flash it there is no software based flashing solution that works for this chip. The x3 mod chip which probally needs no introduction xman also some of the aladin mod chips require a 2 second press of the power button to disable the write protection that has tripped me up may be worth a note?

Anyway, I used, which someone said. I checked the jumper, and it is set to Master. What is the 80 wire IDE cable you mentioned? Just swap out the IDE cable for an 80 pin one?

And people are doing crazy things like twisting the BT and L1 together and soldering them onto the chasis. Should I just ignore all that and do it the way you told me? Will this be an 'always on' mode or will it be able to be disabled when I want to use why. Feel free to express your vocabulary this is my 6th chip I've installed.

Tim Thank you Tim. Oh few more tips - try NOT to cross your wires on a lpc rebuild. I've seen it cause glitches - when bending wires, it's Always better to use a slight curve instead of a 90degree hook (just sometimes a cable breaks inside of its shielding under a hook. Not very common, but still, i tend to use curves) - not 1.6 related but still a good tip. I love using flux.

To format a 1TB hard drive, you'll need to use XBPartitionner. It's a tool included in Auto-Installer deluxe. Just select Standard Partition scheme in it and allocate all the exeeding disk space to a F drive. Don't forget to reflash your modchip with either Evox M8+ or IND-Bios. Don't not flash it with a Xecuter 2 BIOS as they do not support hard drives that big. Those LPC holes were a pain in the ass, but definitely a lot less stress inducing than that damn D0 point. The point is about 1/8th the size of what it looks like in the pictures!

I chipped this console for someone on here to sell to them since I hate selling softmodded consoles since they can be ruined. This way I never have to worry what if they delete this dash and whatever First time chipping an Xbox and it is easy as can be with the Aladdin XT Plus 2. You get what you pay for tho. This chip lacks a lot of features compared to the X2/X3 due to the BIOS (its not recommended to use IND-BIOS on the Aladdin if installing in a 1.6).

Okay, so I'm installing my Aladdin XT Plus 2. The diagram talks about BT, which is off of resistor R3G3. It doesn't tell where to hook it up. Where does it go? EDIT: Never mind, I'm an idiot. EDIT2: I used, which shows all the connection points on the Xbox board.

Use the appropriate option to flash your TSOP. Once your TSOP is properly flashed, you really should remove the softmod install from your HDD. Softmods are designed to run from a stock BIOS and could generate trouble if you try to run it from a hacked BIOS. The best way to do this would be to reformat your C and E drive and reinstall UnleashX just as you did the first time. I'll make sure to double check the revision!

Wes213 Administrator Joined: Feb 04, 2007 Posts: 10519 Location: Harrisonburg V.A. Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 4:17 pm Post subject: Not sure since i always use X2 and X3 but is this what you need? Zamfret Xbox-HQ Enthusiast Joined: Apr 27, 2008 Posts: 45 Location: Australia Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 10:38 pm Post subject: wes213 wrote: Not sure since i always use X2 and X3 but is this what you need? Thanks for the link. This helps but the one I have is different to the one in the link. Mine is an XT Plus2.